Black soap, also known as ose dudo, anago, and alato soap, is a traditional treasure of Togo. It is produced from a unique mixture of plant wastes such as cocoa pods, plantain leaves and bark, shea plant by-products, and/or palm kernel shafts, as well as vegetable oils such as palm oil or coconut oil. Most conventional soap is made from oils and chemicals, but black soap is produced from oils and agro-wastes, resulting in a very unique creation. The all-natural soap is touted as having an extremely soothing effect on dry and irritated skin as well as clearing acne and red areas. Due to the purity and simplicity of ingredients, it is said to be one of the healthiest soaps for the skin.
Togolese black soap has a very high percentage of unrefined shea butter and unrefined palm oil. The other ingredients (local recipes vary slightly by region) are also distinctive: plant waste is being recycled into a product that has magnificent skin healing qualities and is also environmentally sensitive. Although this soap does not yet have a world reputation, natural soaps already have a reputation for being gentler on the skin, and evoke feelings of comfort, safety, nature, and nourishment. These aspects are becoming increasingly important to consumer choice in skin care products.
The demand for natural personal care items is continuing to rise in developed markets. Companies that base their product line on being all-natural, such as Tom’s of Maine, Burt’s Bees, and Lush, have seen tremendous growth in recent years. Lush commands premium prices for their natural soap, retailing for more than four times that of other natural soaps. While much of this value is due to brand recognition, Lush also stresses the hand-made, natural, exotic elements of its products. Other all-natural soaps typically retail for double that of conventional soaps. Black soap fits the profile of these products that are earning higher retail prices.
As black soap has not strongly penetrated the market, the retail chains have not been developed, with most black soap being sold by small internet-based retailers. There have been a few brands that carry black soap labels, though not all are produced in Africa. As the popularity of the product continues to rise, some retailers are using the label African black soap. Importantly, some black soap is being made with black dye, containing none of the key qualities of true black soap. However, true black soap is from West Africa – it is the raw ingredients, as well as the traditional hand crafting of the soap, that make the soap authentic. Both genuine black soap, as well as imitation, can be found in a few natural food markets, though they are not widely available.
Black soap producers could be assisted by an IP-based strategy to capture part of the intangible value that is earned by higher priced soaps. Experts believe that black soap has the potential to become as well known as shea butter, illustrating the need to manage this unique product in the interest of low-income producers.
Most black soap producers are only receiving about $0.44 per kilogram for their soap. Exporters are receiving approximately $1.15 per kilogram. Black soap wholesalers are receiving about $17.00 per kilogram while the retail price is around $34.00 per kilogram. It is important to note that the trade is still very informal. It is estimated that Togo is currently exporting about $50,000 worth of black soap.
Given the market situation, with the proper IP strategies which might involve distribution and certification changes, experts estimate that black soap producers could capture an additional 200-400% premium on the price per kilo they are currently receiving, and could build a market yielding export income of $2-4m p.a.
Togo is one of four West African countries that is exporting black soap as an artisan product. An IP based business strategy might be built for Togo or a combination of different country stakeholders, possibly involving cooperatives.